DATE: 31/03/2026
How to Spot Credibility in a Dog Trainer
We use dog collars to walk our dogs, ensure our dogs’ safety, and to train our dogs for many purposes.
Learn the difference between collars, what’s good/bad about them and how to size each collar properly.
Most dog owners have this smooth, plain collar on their dog as normal practice.
The straps are made of different materials such as nylon, leather, plastic, rubber.
The buckles are made from metal, brass or plastic.
There are two main buckle styles.
The snap-in type is designed for quick release. This is usually for smaller size dogs as the attachment piece is more yielding.
The clasp with the pin and hole is better at holding the collar on a stronger dog.
Push two fingers in the collar sideways while on your dog. You may need to use a measuring tape then convert when ordering.
Seeing that the Martingale can hold an I.D. tag and is safer, I don’t see a need for flat collars. I haven’t used them for awhile accept for the wide ones for protection work.
This self-tightening collar is available in nylon or nylon and chain. I personally never use the chain version because I don’t see a need for it.
This collar, originally designed for a greyhound has two loops; the opening that goes around your dog’s head and the smaller circular area which presents the leash ring.
Pinch type collars such as these come with a plastic piece that fastens.
You can also get the same collar with a metal adjustable part. These are more reliable.
Slide the collar just over the dog’s head.
Be mindful of the dogs head size vs neck. If the dog has a big head or a slim neck you can be a little liberal with sizing.
If his head is small in comparison to his body or has a thick neck make sure the collar is not too loose. However, in this case it should still be able to slide just over his head.
Lastly, avoid a Martingale make that is too wide of a collar. These slide on your dog’s hair easily, thus, coming off. I saw this happen.
The Martingale is the most versatile choice. It contracts, prevents escaping, takes pressure away from the throat, ties down securely in vehicles, accompanies other collars as a backup, and more. As a non-aversive it’s the best and my favorite.
Also known as the pinch collar, its appearance is something similar to what a dentist would use!
In actuality, it doesn’t pinch and is one of the most trustworthy collars when used correctly.
The engine behind the collar isn’t the barbaric looking part but is actually the smaller loop. This is the magic that pulls the device together, causing a shrinkage in size.
When using this aid to discourage a behavior, the dull tips of the tool makes contact with the side muscles of the dog.
There’s more than one opinion on how to fit a prong collar.
Here’s two.
If you are struggling just to take your dog for a walk make the collar a little snug and high on the neck. This will guide the head. Be sure to remove the collar after the walk.
If you are doing formal training (always recommended) the collar should be looser. Not only should it be able to rotate around the neck, but it should also be just loose enough to prevent pressure sores.
The most humane aversive collar for hard dogs (dogs that bounce back quickly from Punishment) and dogs that became desensitized to the starmark, is the prong collar.
It tells a dog where to go without having to say a word to him. Scientifically, this is called escape conditioning. It safely teaches a dog how to make something unpleasant go away.
If we could only have one collar on the planet for dog training I’d probably pick this one.
A very misunderstood collar in dog training. And then there’s some that get it.
This plastic collar is extremely similar to the previous one in this article. And because of that some people will write it off as barbaric. Still others would say it’s ineffective because it’s made of a different material.
The potential in this collar is the yielding qualities themselves. This is literally the answer for dogs that are too sensitive to prong collars.
I’ve trained sensitive dogs that began on martingales, became desensitized, transitioned to a starmark, then a metal one outside, later on.
Sizing should be loose enough to rotate around the neck of the dog and up and down the neck.
When I use these, it’s during a transitional stage in a dogs obedience training. Also for a gentle ”out” command while in an intermediate level of protection work.
If you need this collar to be tighter to prevent leash pulling, for example, you’re using the wrong collar anyway.
This device is unique. In one sense it could be used on almost all dogs. Then on the other hand, it’s usefulness is specific and limited.
I highly recommend and often use this collar. It definitely has its place in dog training.
The choke chain has two rings; one on each end. The actual chain goes through one of the rings to form the letter “P.” This way, when you’re not applying pressure the chain is able to come loose again. Otherwise it would get snared, to some degree.
Used properly, if that were possible, the handler would administer a quick snap as a correction. The direction if the leash would pull from the dogs neck, on the side, not against the throat.
Unfortunately though, this chain still has a very high chance of hurting a dog simply because of the design.
This doggie necklace goes just over the dog’s head. If two different sizes fit a dog the larger of the two should be used. The smaller size won’t give the desired snap effect.
I don’t use these at all. There’s simply too many other not effective, safer tools on the market today.
The halti Collar has a design similar to a horse type. It goes around the back of a dog’s head and around the muzzle.
Some of these collar types are an individual piece, including a ring. Others are part of a leash.
There’s a couple different options to find the right size for a head collar.
If you have the adjustable buckles, size then accordingly and slide the component over the dog’s muzzle and around the head. Then attach a leash to the little metal loop on the head piece.
If you have a purchased head part and leash all in one, you will have something like a slip lead.
In this case, make a loop with the lead and ring. Where the two meet, place that on the back of the head, high on the neck.
Take the remaining slack, and bringing it over the dog’s head and under the neck, turn your wrist and make a figure eight with it.
Bring that smaller loop you just created as part of figure eight, up over the dog’s muzzle.
Remember to attach a double-ended clip to the lower leash and backup collar in case the halti comes off.
It’s not a collar I would use on a pooch as a substitute for training. I rather use them for intermediate level training; mostly shaping since there’s no technical corrections.
I don’t use them often but I’m glad they exist. When I do use them the results are obvious that they came from this resource.
Another invention including a figure eight in design and one of many harness types is the Lupi. Made for Snoopy.
It comes with a ring that sits on the dogs chest, also a figure eight in appearance. This double eyepiece gives stability and sizing to each side of the device.
On top is another metal element that allows material to go through, rendering leverage as you pull up. Think of this as a slip lead but under and around the arms and legs instead of the neck of the dog.
There’s more than one figure eight in this multi-loop gizmo. Simply put your dog’s head through the top loop then his arms in the sides. It will make sense which direction every loop should face because of where the leash attaches; at the highest point.
I personally would have no need for this device. I enjoy knowing that the dog understands what my intentions are in formal “heel” training.
However, if your dog is not overly dominant or if he works better with the harness, go for it!
The e-collar, also known as a shock collar is made of a handheld transmitter and receiver.
The remote typically has a number dial, stimulation button, as well as vibrate, on/off and momentary/continuous. They also can come with led lights for night time use and other options.
The receiver is a strap attached to an electronic component via slits. This allows different straps to be added or removed. For example, if you plan to exercise your dog you can put in a bungee strap.
The receiver also has two contact points that are usually plastic with metal going through, resulting in metal tips. These spiky looking objects can also come in different sizes, all-metal, or with four points instead of two.
To find a dogs working level (the lowest level that he feels it) the collar needs to be on pretty tight at first. It should not be able to rotate and the contact posts should be on the side muscles of the dog’s neck.
I train as positive as practically possible and specialize in the humane use of all tools.
That said, many other symptoms, side effects, and scary things are mentioned about e-collars but they arise from lack of knowledge about Collar use, genetics of a given dog, training, etc.
in short, there is always a reason some dog is messed up from e-collar training. Something dumb that could have been avoided but the trainer was too lazy or uneducated. It’s also why they’ll soon be banned in the U.S.
There’s a variety of collars within the anti-bark category. They’re all designed to stop dogs from yapping.
There’s the ultrasonic device that lets out a sound in response to a bark. Also, the gadget that sprays unpleasant citronella substance at your dog’s nose when he barks. But the most popular and effective choice is the electronic collar, which we’ll briefly discuss.
Simply put the collar on and make sure the contact points are touching his neck. It’s the same concept as the e-collar.
I feel that this collar should only be used on special occasions.
I ask, why not work on leadership instead? Get to the root of the problem?
Maybe the dogs under-exercised, anxious because he’s taking on a role that doesn’t belong to him.
However, if you live in a small apartment and tenants or landlord is complaining, you have to do what you have to do!